Not all sewing needles are multipurpose. And needles you use to sew by hand aren’t the same as what you put on the machine. So if you’re just starting to sew cosplays or need a refresher before starting new Renaissance faire garbs, this sewing machine needles guide can help.
Depending on your machine though, your needles may have special labeling to help you better understand what fabric to use them for. That’s why we’re going to look over what the sizes mean as well as Singer sewing machine needles and their applications.
Sewing Machine Needles Size Guide
| Size | Fabrics |
| 70/10 | Very lightweight such as chiffon, organza and tulle |
| 80/12 | Lightweight such as cotton and linen |
| 90/14 | Medium weight |
| 100/16 | Medium to heavy weight such as denim and corduroy |
| 110/18 | Heavy weight such as thick canvas, leather and denim |
Singer Sewing Machine Needles Guide
Your Singer sewing machine needles aren’t all the same. These is size and a color guide to help you pick the right one for the fabrics you’re sewing.
Singer Sewing Machine Needle Size Chart
Singer not only uses the same size numbering system, but they also label the needles even further.
| Type | Size | Fabrics |
| Universal | 60/9 70/11 80/12 90/14 100/16 110/18 | Delicates like chiffon Sheers and delicates Poplin, rayons or light wool Medium weight such as linen or calico Heavy fabrics such as upholstery Extra heavy fabric such as upholstery |
| Sharps/Quilting | 70/11 80/12 90/14 | Delicates and microfiber Shirting and microfiber All |
| Ball Point | 70/11 80/12 90/14 | Light knits Interlock Medium to heavy knits or double knit |
| Stretch | 75/11 90/12 | Light lycra or elastic fabrics Elastic or heavy lycra |
| Jeans/Denim | 90/14 100/16 | Denim or other tight woven fabrics |
| Leather/Heavy Duty | 90/14 100/16 | For all leathers and vinyl For all leathers and vinyl but not ultra-suedes |
| Metalfil | 80/12 | Fabrics using metallic threads |
Singer Sewing Machine Needle Color Chart
Singer sewing machine needs have two colored bands on them that each have a different meaning.
| Top Band Color | Needle Type |
| Red | Universal or Woven |
| Yellow | Ball Point or Knits |
| Blue | Jeans or Denim |
| Brown | Leather |
| Purple | Quilting |
| Bottom Band Color | Needle Size |
| Green | 70/10 |
| Orange | 80/12 |
| Blue | 90/14 |
| Violet | 100/16 |
Brother Sewing Machine Needles Guide
Every brand is different. Here is how you know when to use Brother sewing machine needles.
| Type | Identifier | Size | Fabrics |
| Universal | Silver shank | 75/11 90/14 100/16 | Lightweights (silk, taffeta) Medium (cotton, linen, satin) Heavy (denim, corduroy,) |
| Ball Point | Gold color shank | 75/11 90/14 | Light knits, stretch fabrics Heavy knits, fleece, elastic |
| Denim | Silver shank and sharp point | 100/16 | Thick denim, canvas |
Why Does Sewing Machine Needle Size Matter?
Selecting the right needle type and size is vital in making cosplays and all other sewing. This ensures your needle will neatly and easily slide through the fabric you’re using without causing damages or creating large holes. Choosing the wrong tools for the material you’re working with is vital to ensure a clean finished product. This even applies to sewing cosplays by hand and the needles you choose for that.
Which Sewing Needle for Which Fabric
Matching the correct needle to your fabric is the secret to professional-looking cosplay. Here is a quick cheat sheet for common pairings:
- Universal Needles: The “Jack-of-all-trades.” Use these for stable woven fabrics like craft cotton, broadcloth, and linen.
- Ballpoint/Jersey Needles: Essential for stretchy knits like t-shirt jersey, sweatshirt fleece, and interlock.
- Stretch Needles: A must for highly elastic fabrics like spandex, Lycra, and swimsuit material.
- Jeans/Denim Needles: Designed with a sharp, strong point for heavy wovens like denim, canvas, and heavy twill.
- Microtex/Sharp Needles: Best for high thread count or delicate fabrics like silk, organza, and microfiber where you need a precision point.
- Leather Needles: These have a cutting point (like a spear) to slice through leather, faux leather, and vinyl without skipping stitches.
How Do I Know Which Sewing Machine Needle to Use
To choose the right sewing machine needle, you need to consider two main things: the fabric type and the fabric weight.
- Fabric Type: Determine if your material is woven (like cotton or denim) or knit (like jersey or spandex). Woven fabrics generally need a sharp point to pierce through the threads, while knits need a ballpoint needle to slide between the loops of the fabric to prevent holes and runs.
- Fabric Weight: This determines the size of the needle you need. Think of the needle size number as a scale: the lighter the fabric, the smaller the number. For example, a delicate chiffon needs a tiny size 70/10 needle, while thick leather requires a large size 100/16 or 110/18 needle. If you hear a “thumping” sound while sewing, your needle is likely too small for the heavy fabric. If the needle leaves visible holes, it is likely too big.
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