Being a seamstress requires understanding certain terminology and techniques. If you like to sew your cosplays, it can be really valuable to take time to learn these things. This sewing glossary for cosplayers can help you better understand certain words so you can better understand patterns, instructions and sew your costumes.

Basic Sewing Terms

  • Seam – Where two pieces of fabric are stitched together
  • Hem or rolled hem – Finished edge at the bottom of a costume piece that’s folded or rolled and sewn to prevent fabric fraying
  • Grainline – Direction of threads in the fabric
  • Bias – Diagonal direction across the fabric and has the most stretch
  • Darts – Triangle folds sewn into fabric to add shape, often around the bust or waist
  • Gathers or gathering – Pulling fabric together with stitches to create volume or ruffles
  • Pleats – Folds of fabric sewn in place for structed volume
  • Seam allowance – Extra fabric between stitching line and the raw edge
  • Notch – Small triangle or clip in the fabric edge that helps align pattern pieces
  • Drape – How fabric hangs or flows
  • Panel – Separate sections of a garment

Stitch and Finishes Sewing Glossary

  • Straight stitch – Basic stitch that runs in a straight line
  • Zigzag stitch – A stitch that prevents fabric fraying and adds stretch to the seams
  • Topstitching – Decorative or functional stitching on the outside of the fabric
  • Overlock or serge – Fabric edge finishing that trims and binds the edges
  • Whip stitchHand stitch that wraps around the edge
  • Ladder stitch – Invisible hand stitch for closing openings
  • Backstitch – Sewing backward at the start or end of a seam to lock the stitches

Cosplay Specific Sewing Terms

  • Mock ups – Test version of the costume, often made from muslin or other scrap fabric
  • Bias tape – Strips of fabric cut on the bias and used to neatly finish edges
  • Boning – Plastic or steal strips for structure in things like corsets
  • Foam backingSewing thin fabrics over EVA foam
  • Fusible web – Adhesive sheets for attaching fabric without sewing

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